How To Get Better Lash Retention
LASH RETENTION! It’s one of the most common concerns in the lash industry, and it’s no surprise. After all, you’ve invested time and skill into creating a beautiful set of lashes, and of course, you want them to last as long as possible!
Lash retention is a shared responsibility between the lash artist and the client, with each playing a vital role in ensuring the best results. As a lash artist, you must provide the proper knowledge and techniques, while clients need to follow aftercare instructions to maintain their lashes. Keep reading for a comprehensive guide to retention, along with our top tips and tricks to help those fresh lashes stay flawless for longer!
WHAT IS LASH RETENTION?
Retention is simply how long the lash extensions last. The goal is for your work to last, as it shows the quality of your application. To get the best retention, you need to nail all the details at every stage of the process. Let's get into our tips!
CRUCIAL TIPS TO FOCUS ON:
#1. Room environment: For the best lash retention, it’s important to control your room’s temperature and humidity. Each adhesive has its ideal temperature/humidity ranges that they perform best in and if you aren't working in that range, the adhesive will not work effectively. If the humidity is too low, the glue will dry too slowly; if it’s too high, it dries too quickly. Using a hygrometer is a great way to keep track of your room's conditions.
#2. Cleansing: If the natural lashes aren’t properly cleaned of dirt, oils, makeup, and other debris, the extensions won’t bond correctly, leading to poor retention. Skipping this step means the lashes may stick to dry skin or leftover makeup, causing them to fall off sooner. Even if the lashes look clean, hidden oils and residues can still impact the bond, so always ensure a squeaky clean surface before you start. The Mauvella Foam Lash Cleanser is an excellent choice for a lash bath, as it’s a two-in-one formula that acts as both a makeup remover and lash cleanser.
#3. Shaking your glue: Shaking your adhesive is essential for it to work properly. The ingredients in the glue can separate, with some settling at the top or bottom of the bottle, so shaking ensures everything is mixed evenly for the best performance. This is one of the most important steps to make sure your adhesive bonds effectively.
#4. Using the correct amount of adhesive: Dip the base of the extension about 2-3mm into the glue dot, and always aim for the center of the glue dot, as it’s the freshest point. Too little glue results in poor retention, while too much creates a large bead that takes longer to dry, leading to stickies. The key is to use just the right amount for a strong, quick bond.
#5. Replacing your glue dot: Use a new glue dot every 20-30 minutes, as the glue will start to get goopy the longer it’s exposed to air. When the glue starts to get stringy, goopy or dry, it’s an indicator that it’s time to use a fresh dot.
#6. Proper lash placement: Correct placement is key to good retention. Always ensure the base of the lash extension is flush against the natural lash, with about 2mm of the extension's base applied directly to the natural lash. If the base isn’t properly attached and lifts off, remove it and reapply correctly.
#7. Using flat stem promades: The Mauvella flat stem promade fans are a game changer for lash retention. It features heat-bonded bases rather than glue-bonded ones, which results in superior retention and quality. With a wide, flat base, these fans fully surround the natural lash, providing maximum contact. The design ensures a healthy weight distribution, with the lash fibers sitting next to each other, creating a wide fan that evenly disperses its weight for a secure, long-lasting bond.
#8. Lash coverage: Aim for 100% coverage across the lash line. While some artists may leave 10-40% of the natural lashes unlashed to save time, this compromises retention. Always do a final check at the end of the set to ensure every natural lash is covered and that no lashes are stuck together.
#9. Glue storage: To keep your adhesive in optimal condition, store it in a cool, dark, and dry place. High temperatures, direct sunlight, and moisture can alter the adhesive’s composition, so avoid those conditions. The best way to store opened glue is in an airtight container like the Mauvella Glue Container, which includes a silica pack to absorb moisture and a divider to keep up to 3 adhesives upright. Always store the bottle upright to prevent clogging and tightly close the lid to prevent oxidation. For unopened glue, storing it in the fridge is fine for up to 4-5 months; just let it return to room temperature before use. Never refrigerate opened glue. For a more detailed explanation of all things adhesive, be sure to check out our adhesive blog.
TIPS FOR CLIENTS:
Your clients play a key role in maintaining healthy lashes and improving retention by following proper lash aftercare. We suggest going through lash aftercare with your clients and educating them on why it's so important.
If your clients use any oil based products or cleansers/creams with ingredients like glycol, which can dissolve the adhesive and cause premature fallout, remind them to wash around the eyes, not directly on the lashes. Let them know to avoid applying these products near the lash line and to cleanse their lashes separately using a lash bath. This will help preserve the adhesive and ensure better retention.
If your client has naturally oily skin or eyelids, it can shorten the lifespan of their lashes, as oil breaks down the adhesive. Remind them to wash their lashes regularly and suggest using blotting sheets to help control excess oil throughout the day. This can help improve retention and keep their lashes looking fresh longer.
If your clients wear makeup daily, advise them to try to avoid the eye area. Especially mascara or eyeliner, but if they do wear it, they must remove it thoroughly. Remind them to steer clear of waterproof products near the eyes, as they require more rubbing to remove. Cleaning makeup off completely is key, and the Mauvella Lash Bath, a two-in-one makeup remover and lash cleanser, is perfect for getting rid of stubborn makeup around the eyes.
If your client regularly engages in activities like going to the gym, yoga, sports, swimming, running, cycling, gymnastics, or cheerleading, these can impact lash retention due to factors like heat, chlorine, salt, oil, and sweat. Encourage them to wash their lashes immediately after these activities.
Your client’s lifestyle should always be part of your consultation so you can create an aftercare plan that fits their specific needs.
Happy Lashing!
Xoxo,
Mauvella